33. My first trip accross the continent
Modes of travel
Since my childhood days, my journeys have been undertaken by some very
interesting modes of transportation, which I would like to share. To start
with, I used to go to the school by means of a Buggee which was a twin horse
driven cart which had a cubicle closed from all four sides and had proper doors
on both the sides. Occasionally I used to go to Patna city on a “fittin” which
was again horse pulled, but will a single horse. It used to be open from both
the sides and had a soft hood for the cover. These were the luxuries meant
exclusively for the opulent class. Then Bhaiyya got a motor car that was called
Baby Austen that was of the size of current day’s auto rickshaw. Later indeed
he purchased many large ones. Then came the motor Bus for public
transportation. After my marriage when Doctor Saheb was transferred to Araria
in the remote district of Purnea, I had my first time journey on the steamer
and then a locomotive train. As I reached Araria station, a “shamini” was
waiting for me at the station to take me home. This was a bullock cart that was
intensely decorated and cushions provided for comfortable journey. It was
borrowed from a local landlord for my convenience. I have also traveled a
number of times in an ordinary bullock cart and for good distance.
Much earlier, in Patna, gene-rickshaw had come out which was hand pulled
by the rickshaw puller through the long handle on which the jingling bells were
tied to caution the co pedestrians. This species is still seen on the streets
of Calcutta I trust. My Bhabhi out of adventure called one such hand
pulled rickshaw through Kariman Bua. Both of us sat in it and went through one
road and returned home through the parallel road. All for a fare of
one rupees. Much later the cycle rickshaw emerged which is still in vogue in
most cities of the country.
Once in my life I have also travelled by Ekka which is similar to present
day tonga, which is a hose driven cart. The funny part of it is that it has a
single pair of wheels. This happened when ages ago we went to Madhubani on
posting. I have travelled in a Palki as wel as on the back of an elephant.
Coming back to the trip to America, When Nikhat was returning to America
after the wedding of Ejaz, she forced me to promise that next time I will go to
America. Qamar had also earlier requested me. Now that things were more or less
settled, both my children in America kept insisting. I didn’t have enough money
for the air ticket and therefore kept extending the idea. Eventually Nikhat
sent me the visa papers and asked for my confirmation for sending the tickets
as well.
I eventually finalized my plans to visit America. Through a travel agent
in Patna Ejaz got most of the formalities completed. I did some marketing for
the presents to be given there and left for Delhi with Ejaz. Niamat at that
point of time was posted in Delhi. The visa was obtained without any difficulty
and the ticket was already there as sent by Nikhat. Thus a house wife who had
rarely travelled alone was ready to fly to America, all on her own. I had no
desire to see the place and instead wanted to see my children and their living
and their pleasures and joy.
I eventually boarded the plane and took off. I was offering Namaaz as per
my watch which was still as per the Indian time. The first stop over was at
London for fairly long hours. I had a few relatives there but they had no
information about this travel plan. It was not feasible for me to go and meet
them on my own. When all the fellow passengers got down the plane, I too came
out with them. There was a huge shopping area of duty free shops, I got so
engrossed in the window shopping that almost missed my onward flight. This was
a different aircraft and the hostesses were all Americans and had just 4 or
five Indian passengers. When the meal tray was served I realized it had a big
chunk of reddish steak which I guess was pork, even I had never seen it before.
I had no idea that one has to specifically mention Muslim meal to avoid such
items. I refused the entire meal and there after just had coke and tea etc. The
packet of biscuit I was carrying in my purse came handy for the next 14 hours
of the journey.
Eventually when I landed at the destination and reached the immigration
hall, I was much relieved to see that Neyaz, Qamar, Nikhat, and Shama had all
come with the kids. They were visible from the glass partition. They were all
happy to see me having landed in one single piece. Necessary formalities were
completed without any hassle. Only one of my luggage had been misplaced that
was traced to have remained unloaded in England but they assured it will reach
home by the next flight.
We finally reached Nikhat’s place and she was happy and astonished to see
me quite fresh after such a long journey. She wrapped me in her arms for a long
time and lots of photographs were taken. There was mild jet lag for a couple of
days when I had to take sleeping pills but it soon became fine. Neyaz and Shama
went back to their home which was in another adjoining city. Nikhat’s daughter
was very young then and she used to go to drop both her children to school.
Cereal was my favorite food item there. Nikhat was taking me to all the
malls and other places of visit. I was impressed by the level of honesty of the
common people there. Another admirable feature was that no one stared at others
no matter what kind of dress you are in. extremely obese females were wearing
shorts but that was no one’s concern. In America the number of whites and negro
is nearly the same. Once we were moving around when I noticed a tall
black female in a bikini and initially it occurred to me that a mannequin had
started walking. After the initial embarrassment (as Qamar was along) I
realized that no one else was bothered in the least and she kept striding
nonchalantly.
Most of the meals we used to have outside during the day in the form of fish
burger or salad and ice-cream etc. Only the dinner was had at home of the
traditional Indian style. I was surprised to see that Nikhat was pretty fast in
her cooking and also a good cook. Most impressive was the kitchen there and its
comparison when own kitchen in Rajendra Nagar, it was a contrast to
a hilarious extent. She used to maintain the kitchen so well.
After a few days Neyaz came over and took me along to his place that was not too far away. I asked Neyaz that I had the craving for meeting the people related to me, rather than tourism. Sabra Khala and Mannoo Mamoo had by then passed away but their children were there in America, including Azra who was one of my all time favorites.
Others who were
close to me were Rizwana and Menhdi Nawab. From Pakistan I had brought the
address of Dr. Shahid who lived in a place called Indianapolis. He was the
youngest son of my Sharfoo Baji, and he used to study with Nuzhat in the same
school when we were in Darbhanga. He was brilliant in his studies. We also met
Asif (Mannoo Mamoo’s son) and Malka who were living in Kalamazoo. Asif and
Malka had earlier stayed in my Behari Sao lane house for a long time and trying
to have some business of his own. Rarely a Behari Muslim has succeeded as a
businessman. On top of it, he was the son of Nawab Tajjammul Hussain, The laid
back “rayees” of Patna city. He eventually migrated to America as his elder
brothers had done earlier and was there in the teaching profession. The couple
was totally transformed from what I had seen them earlier. Full length beard
and whole heartedly devout Muslim. How a person, having spent half his life in
utmost luxury, had such a transformation of his heart.
We left for Chicago from there. Till that point Nikhat and Qamar were also
along. After moving around the city, at around four o’clock in the afternoon
when everyone felt hungry, Neyaz took us to and Indian restaurant where buffet
lunch was available. Eat as much as you can for just 7 dollars. All varieties
of items were there including made to order Masala dosa. Nikhat and Shama opted
for the Chaat section. All of us piled on the food counter and filled our
plates with different varieties of food, heaped to the extent possible. None of
us could actually eat even half of the quantity taken. It was embarrassing to
have behaved like a famine struck but soon realized that it was an Indian
restaurant and all other customers were no different from us.
In the evening we reached Rizwana’s place. She had made lovely Kababs and
we had a good session of chat mostly related to Patna. After the breakfast next
morning, Qamar and Nikhat left for their own place. And we left for Kentucky to
meet Menhdi Nawab. Indianapolis was on the way where Dr. Shahid used to live.
He was the son of my Bhabhi’s elder sister and his father Asghar Bhai was a
Judge in Darbhanga when we also were there. We went to meet him. He also had
become totally devoted to the religion. His wife was pretty and was from
Pakistan. They had a 14 year old daughter who had gone to attend a 4 day
religious session of Tablighi Jamaat. Shahid also took us to show the mosque
that was built with his tireless efforts. I felt extremely comfortable at his
place.
We then reached Menhdi Nawab’s place. Neither he nor his wife were present
despite prior information about our arrival. His wife had some business in a
hotel and had gone there. Only Nawab Bhai was there who had come to America for
his knee operation. Later when they all came they also invited Dr. Khursheed
and Azra for the dinner which was all prepared by Menhdi’s sons. Their house
was not large enough for the entire lot when it came to spending the night.
Nawab Bhai was also there. Menhdi Nawab offered his own bedroom to us despite
my reluctance. They were all a busy lot the next day. We had to move to Azra’s
place and when were about to leave Menhdi arrived again apologizing for his
absence and said “life is like that here”. I tried to console him
and said” my purpose was to see you all so it’s OK”.
Azra lived somewhere close by. She was so pleased to play the host. Mannoo
Mamoo and Sabra Khala was quite close to us and therefore we have a kind of
attachment for all their sons and daughters. Mannoo Mamoo, when he was an MP in
Delhi, often used to invite us there for a visit but how could I go with all
the responsibilities of young children as well as Amman. He often used to get
us gifts from Delhi. Sabra Khala as well as the daughter Azra often used to
stay with me for weeks. Once when she came and stayed with me, she trimmed
Nuzhat hair in what was then called “Sadhana Cut”. Even after her marriage she
was a frequent visitor, in the same manner as before. When Azra was pregnant we
were residing in the Superintendent quarter within the hospital premises. All
of a sudden she arrived there all the way from her sasural, alone on a rickshaw
and said she was having labor pain. This was at the nick of time.
That was what Azra like. The son that was born looked like dark complexioned. I
remember her jovial remark. “ I was getting fed up of seeing all the
white complexioned children in the family and it is so cute to see one of a
different kind”.
Her behavior always reflect a deep intimacy and for that reason she has
always been very close to me personally. She is the only one left with whom I
still exchange letters even now. Now of course her grand children have become
adults. May God keep my dear sister happy always. Her nature is to get
everything done expeditiously; just like that of mine.
By the time we reached her house she had done the cooking and whole lot of
it. She showed us her house that was open and nice, I felt at home there.
Welfare of the relatives staying abroad was updated. The dinner was excellent
as it was spiced with affection. She gave presents to us; sari for me and dress
material for Shama. I wanted to stay with her for some more time but Neyaz had
his office the next day and hence reluctantly we had to leave.
Nikhat shifted to a new and spacious house during my stay in America. When
I went there for the first time, we all went with gifts and sweets.
Nayyara was living closer to this place with her daughter Sibbi and
son in law Mahmood Hai and frequently used to come to meet me. Once
she forcibly took me to stay with her. They had very impressive Islamic atmosphere
at their home. I don’t exactly remember what present I had taken for them but
when I was returning, Nayyara presented a light almond color sari to me.
During the same period Neyaz also bought a nice new house and planned to
shift there. Neyaz is a nervous kind and remained worried with the thought if
the new house will prove to be suitable to them or not. I tried to explain to
him that a house made of brick and mortar, and has nothing to do with the
happenings of life. Whatever had occurred with your Abba, though unfortunate,
still had the consent of Allah. So a milaad sharif was organized beforehand.
Shama and I made Chicken kabab, grilled mutton and Maqooti. Nikhat was good at
making pulao. Masooda’s sons were staying with Shama at that point
of time, and they were helpful in the arrangements and making salads etc. After
the milaad, we had a brief ceremony of Lubna’s ear piercing which
was done by Nikhat herself. Everyone gave her money and I promised to send her
a gold earring from India. For the house warming party also everyone gave
presents and Arif gave a microwave oven, Shama had one of her own but that was
not of her liking.
The house which Neyaz had purchased was still not complete. Neyaz is a
mechanic himself and one room is always full of his tools and
related objects. He made a library and another room for Arif. The verandah was
huge which was partitioned by him and made an additional beautiful room all by
himself.
In the next weekend, we were to go to Canada to meet Rakhshan Faizi who
was the daughter in law of Masood Bhai. Minnoo Bhai was also staying with them
both of them were related to me as brother and now had become my
“samdhi”. When it came to visiting Canada, Neyaz also got Nikhat prepared to
join the trip. Canada is separated from Detroit with a large lake. I had to
take a fresh visa for there as it is still a different
country. They have made an underground sub-way tunnel to connect the two
counties which is well lighted and has four lane comfortable drive.
As we reached there, being a weekend, all of them were there at home. The
weather had turned awful. Minnoo Bhai was busy painting a chair in the
verandah, wearing a monkey cap. We settled down after the pleasantries. As the
weather had turned extremely cold by then and Rakhshan gave me her very heavy
full length coat and took me along to roam around
the market Massod Bhai’s other son, who was married to
the daughter of Abu Barkat, had invited us for the breakfast due to paucity of
time. Rakshan’s daughter who is married now was very young when we went there.
Minnoo Bhai was always willing to offer a helping hand to his daughter, He was
escorting both the children to and fro the school and above all used to look
after them. His wife used to teach Urdu and Arabic to the children. Rakshi took
me to the market and we went to an Indian shop where ever Indian
item conceivable was available. In a cassette shop, even
“paan” was being sold for one dollar.
Next day morning , which was gain a holiday, we had the luxury of Bhujia
and roti for the breakfast. Jawaid had brought some “jalebi” as well.
Thereafter, joined by Rakhshan and Jawaid, we proceeded in our
respective vehicles for sightseeing. The spots which attracts tourists from far
and wide. It was all clouded and the temperature had fallen further down.
People was going near the fall in boats and were returning all drenched in
water. Never have I seen nudity to the extent that was witnessed on that spot.
It was a disgrace to the women. Now of course, in my own country, the rat race
of that trend have even left them behind as I see them on TV and cassettes. The
kids were nevertheless enjoying thoroughly. They wanted to take the motorboat
ride but Neyaz did not permit them. In the afternoon Jawaid and Rakhshan left
for Canada. Nikhat and Neyaz in their separate vehicle returned to their
respective home travelling once again through the same tunnel. At
the boarder our cars were checked. Later Nikhat explained to me that smuggling
of rice is rampant here and hence the checking.
I had purchases lot of presents for everyone home. It was seven rupees a
dollar those days. Once Nikhat rushed to me and asked for going to
the market immediately saying that “green light special sale” just for one hour
has been announced. It was mostly summer wear for the children – all for a
dollar each. I purchased a number of them as there were so many kids back home.
For an Indian woman, there cannot be anything more entertaining than shopping.
Once when I was staying with Neyaz, he needed to withdraw some amount from
his bank account. He went near a booth which was not manned and instead had a
machine inside, He inserted the cheque in the machine and a message flashed on
the screen to collect the cash and the money popped up the machine slot. There
was no one to monitor all this. Similarly in the shops, the articles were just
touched to the machine and the price of it was captured in the screen. Such
things, I had not then seen prevalent in India.
One night when I was moving around with Neyaz, the weather turned out to
be nasty. On a particular channel in the car radio, they continuously broadcast
weather related information and warning but Neyaz somehow missed it. Suddenly
Neyaz got a feeling of being unwell. He turned the vehicle to a hospital. We
were asked to sit in the waiting hall as he himself went to see the doctor. His
file was available in the hospital with all the details of his background
ailments and other information. ECG was taken and with the grace of Allah the
doctor announced that there was nothing serious and the problem seemed to be a
result of gas and advised him to take light food.
They have excellent arrangements there to meet eventualities arising out
of bad weather. Now everyone has got a phone inside the car and the police help
can easily be called for, The police arrangement is also exemplary. One
day Nikhat was driving me down a deserted road when a police vehicle
intersected us. The policeman came to our car while Nikhat kept seated. He
fined her 50 dollars for over-speeding even as Nikhat kept arguing that she was
not exceeding the prescribed limit. Nikhat later on told me
that they monitor the speed through helicopter patrolling also. The penalty
slip has to be paid within 15 days which Nikhat forgot to deposit within time.
A second card arrived promptly and this time the amount of penalty was enhanced
to 100 dollars. Although the systems were at variance with that of Saudi
Arabia, strict adherence to the rules in both these countries, is remarkable.
Another admirable feature is the cleanliness that they maintain. Every place
that I visited was so spic and span. I realized it even more when I returned to
India and reached Kankerbagh to see all the heaps of garbage lying all over the
place and I was thinking when will my own country be neat and clean like that.
Good or bad, a deep sense of belonging always remains for the mother land.
This feeling is realized more when one migrates to a foreign land. I am never
able to forget one related incidence. When I was going to visit Pakistan on the
first occasion, the train stopped at Lucknow station for a long period. I had
never come to Lucknow before. Most of the guys there were wearing sherwani and
cap. Even the platform vendors were talking in very polite, mannered
and sweet tone. There I bought “rewry” (a kind of sweet candy covered
with sesame seeds), some bangles and miniature copper shoe which is
more for decoration than for being used as the ashtray for smokers. In Lahore
we stayed in the house of one of Sohail’s Mamoo. His samdhan belonged to
Lucknow and was paralyzed and critically ill. When we went to see her I offered
her the rewry I had bought saying "it's from your Lucknow." As these
words were uttered, she started sobbing in an uncontrolled manner all over her
bed.
“you are coming from my Lucknow. How is my Lucknow now”
Though I had not seen enough of the city, I still told her a few words of
praise for her home town. She kept weeping all through clutching the
rewry in her hands. I was overwhelmed with this love for the home land. When
later I described this incidence to Bhabhi in Karachi, she told me that people
from Lucknow and Punjab are most sentimental for soil.
I fell ill twice during my stay in America. I had pain in the kidney
region probably due to the stubborn E-coli infection that I have. I didn’t have
an insurance cover. Sibbi’s husband Mahmood Hai is a doctor of the same line.
He was requested to come and see me but he turned up three days after the pain
had ceased and when he checked me, he suggested whole lot of
investigations. On another occasion, while I was in Qamar’s house, I had severe
stomach pain. Qamar consulted and Indian doctor who was known to him. There
were a few tests done and also Nikhat got my X-ray done. Even after so much of
trouble and expenses they could not reach to a conclusion on the root cause of
the problem Falling ill there has always been like a nightmare for me. Dying in
this foreign country has always been a scary thought. After three months of my
stay there, I started feeling like going back. I had left salvia back home when
she was just a few months old.
I asked Qamar to arrange for my return journey. This time he specifically
recorded Muslim meal for me which also ensures “zabiha” meat. He advised me to
pass through the green channel in customs. Neyaz Nikhat and all came to the
airport to see me off. With all the shopping that I had done, my luggage was
declared overweight by a good measure and the lady negro counter clerk asked me
to pay a hundred dollar charge for the excess baggage. I didn’t have that much
money to spare on these items so it was decided to remove a number of items
from the luggage.
In the meantime Nayyara’s son Faizi came to meet me there with his wife
who was also named Nikhat. He took many photographs of the group as well as
mine alone. In the meantime the counter clerk got changed as her shift got
over. When Faizi heard about the excess baggage problem he went to that lady on
the counter and asked for her permission to be photographed with me saying that
this old lady has come from India all alone and now is leaving. She got
extremely pleased with this gesture. It was getting late now and she just
counted the two suitcases and let me go.
The first stop-over was at London where again the aircraft had to be
changed but everyone was so helpful, that I did not face any difficulty. Next
stoppage was at Abu Zabhi that was for a short duration. I regretted that if I
had known earlier that the flight will go through Abu Zabhi, I would have
stopped over to stay with Nasreen, who was in Abu Zabhi, for at
least a day. It was not possible now and eventually I landed in India.
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Chapter
INDEX.------------------------------------
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